TCB Review:
Occupying a tiny little spot (four tables, a counter and fourteen chairs) but carrying the name “Colossal Café,” the place just begs for a review chock-full of cheeky puns. I’ll skip that and instead focus on the food, which is easy to do as we’re talking the real deal here.

Opening late 2005, the cafe represents what might be the start of a minor trend in Minneapolis: formally trained chefs and cooks taking on small, classic diners, making them their own and churning out delicious diner food. The Colossal joins The Band Box and, on the fancier end, Town Talk in this respect.

Now, I don’t know for certain that the artist behind the counter, Bess Giannakakis, is formally trained, but I do know she understands how to offer excellent from-scratch breakfast fare using fresh, premium ingredients. To start, the scones ($2.10) and cinnamon rolls ($2.29) are wonderful concoctions that match up nicely with the rich dark roast coffee ($1.49 with refills). Last visit I had a flaky, buttery scone with large chunks of apple that ranked right up there as one of the best scones I’ve ever had. You’ll find other variations depending on the day, including buttermilk, pear, spinach-feta and raspberry.

The main menu is fairly short, but what comes to the table is done right: breakfast sandwiches ($4.29) on a homemade biscuit or wrapped in a pancake (!), a couple omelet variations ($7.49), frittatas ($7.99) and some of the best pancakes – yeast-based “flappers” – in town. Large and tasty daily specials – offerings such as huevos rancheros and salmon hash – add variation to the menu. The fresh squeezed orange juice ($1.25 for a small) perfectly compliments any of these plates. They also have sides of a few breakfast standards: hashbrowns, oatmeal and meats, including homemade breakfast sausage.

It’s counter service – order and pay up at the register – at this spot, but the folks at the Colossal are so welcoming and cordial that you’ll never notice (and the counter is only three feet from your chair anyway). It’s only open until 3:00 pm, but here’s the words we always love to hear: breakfast is served all day. No credit cards; take out is available.

Posted: 12/31/06 by Peter Kastler